Day 6 Passage to Darwin AUS
We had a bit of a scare today when Cary was on shift. My dad and I were down below reading our books when a loud bang, thud, bang, bang, boom was heard under the hull of Dragonsbane. I jumped out of my bunk and went top side to see a large log float away from our starboard side. My dad and I went below to look for any signs of sea water or cracks in the hull. We found nothing and I went top side and looked down the hull and saw nothing. The incident did allow us to discover that our main bilge pump float switch is faulted and the bilge was full of sea water. I turn on the manual switch and the bilge emptied out the water. We now keep an eye on our bilge and run the bilge pump every few hours to make sure its clear. Looks like something else to fix when we get to Darwin.
This evening as we ate our dinner in the cockpit together a bird tried many time to land on our radar tower but came more close to the spinning wind generator. I turned the wind generator off a few times because I was worried he would hit the thing and blow it up sending bird guts everywhere. After many tries the bird finally flew away or at least I think it did.
We have 1500 nautical miles to go and the sea is not making one mile easy on us to date. We still are rolling, pitch poling, getting sprayed by waves, and now the closer we get to the Torres debris in the water is becoming very common. I saw a nice looking flip flop floating, coconuts, and two more logs. Looking ahead at the Indian Ocean I am thinking it will be much long then I have in mind.
Just Smile and Keep ON.
Thanks,
Jacques
Current Position: 12deg 50.1min South, 153deg 19.6min East, COG 289M, SOG 6kts, Swell 3 meters, WS 30kts, Cloudy Skies, Air Temp HOT
Day 5 Passage to Darwin
What an exciting day today to start off I hit my head on the wall trim as I was trying to sleep. I flipped over and the boat move before I could lay my head down on the pillow and cracked my head off the trim edge. Then the sea grew and the wind blew. The wave got as high as 3 meters and the wind was gusting up to 30 knots. We sailed off course for 10 miles to make the sailing condition a bit more relaxing. When turning back to course the headsail sheet got stuck on the forward bow cleat. Then because it was stuck the sail wrapped itself into the roller furling and became jammed. I ran forward and had to pull all this shit apart well we pitch poled all over the place. Now as I am writing its dark out and there is something banging around on deck. No idea what it could be. For dinner I made beans and rice witch is interesting because the pressure cooker is a bit big for my stove so when the boat pitches the pot get wedge between the boat hull and the burner. Anyway making food for the last 5 days has been a athletics event or in Cary’s explanation “its like being a human pin ball inside the game” I agree and have the burns, bruises, and cuts to show. My favorite part of cooking is dodging the knife left on the table as it flies across the floor or off the counter to your feet or is it the pot of boiling water?
Smiling BIG!
Thanks,
Jacques
Current Position: UTC05:28, 13deg 36.2min South, 155deg 55.6min East, COG 291degM, SOG 7.5kts, Sea state 2 meter sweels, Air 90deg F, Cloudy Skies
Day 4 Passage to Darwin
Finally the ocean has become somewhat organized and despite yesterday’s slow speed we still pulled off another 150 nautical mile day. We had heavy winds at night 20 to 25 knots keeping us at 7 plus knots sailing all night. The weather has been great thus far and I am looking forward to sailing into the Torres Strait. Right now there is about 30 knots of wind in the Torres area but hopefully that will slow down a bit for us. Anyway we only have been seeing birds and flying fish to keep us company to date. I was told on the morning SSB Radio net that there was some marine traffic close to Papua New Guinea area but that’s a few days away. We may try and fish tomorrow but for now we are trying to eat up all our frozen beef so I can shut off the power hungry fridge. Cary and Dale say hi to everybody out there, still having lots of fun.
Smile!
Thanks,
Jacques
Current Position: UTC03:40: 14deg 06.3min South, 158deg 55.32min East, COG 278deg M, SOG 6.8kts, WS 18kts, WD East, Sea 1 meter Swell, Air Temp 85F, Water Temp 88deg, Cloudy Sky
Day 3 Passage to Darwin
Another day of pitch poling and mind numbing rolling. The good news is that for the last two days we have been averaging 150 nautical miles per day. But today we had a few hiccups that may have slowed us down. We tried raising the spinnaker and the wind picked up right as I was opening it. We also didn’t have the port sheet in a snatch block and almost ripped the safety line off the boat. Between trying to drop the spinnaker and getting the line into a block we tore the spinnaker in two places only 5 inches in totally but we had to drop the shut and fix it. We also broke an old block and I rope burned my hands fighting with the spinnaker. All in all it was a good learning day for everybody on how not to raise and lower a spinnaker. We are back to our headsail and staysail making 5.5 knots. I fear running our mainsail because the waves are rolling us so much that the sail violently slaps back and forth which has a high risk of breaking rigging and gear, not worth the gain. SO we will go a bit slower tonight but it will be safer in the long run of thing. All is well onboard.
Better just keep Smiling!
Current Position: 14deg 42.2min South 161deg 28.9min East UTC 05:11, COG 270, SOG 5.5kts, WS 11kts, Swell 1-2meters and mixed, Skies clear, Temp 94F, Water 90F
Thank you,
Jacques
Day 2 Passage to Darwin OZ
Well still sailing as you may have guessed and we are rocking and rolling, pitch poling all the way we go. The wind is right at our back and waves are just off our quarter making it the worst motion on the ocean. I have to say that the south Pacific never gets organized as far as sea state goes or wind. It just a big old washing machine and we are in it.
Sailed with the spinnaker today for about 12 hours then switch back to the main and jib configuration for the old man. Saw nothing but blue skies, blue ocean, and hot weather as we make our way.
Keep Smiling!
Thanks,
Jacques
Current Position: 15deg 06.84min South, 163deg 41.70min East UTC 05:07, SOG:6.5kts, COG:280deg-M, Sea Height 1 meter, Clear skies, Air temp 93degrees, Water temp 91 deg, Wind speed 15kts,
Day 1 Sailing to Darwin Australia
At 12:00pm today we pulled the anchor in Santo Vanuatu to begin our 20 day sail to Darwin Australia. Dale, Cary, and I onboard will complete the 2289 nautical passage to Darwin Australia with a average speed of 5 knots or better. Right now the sea has us rolling all over the place and we may have to do a little change in our direction to keep from rolling.
Current Position: 15deg 42.96min South, 166deg 47.19min East Course over Ground 271deg magnetic, Speed 6.5 knotes, Over cast sky, waves 1 meter, Wind Speed 18 knotes
Always smile!
Thank you,
Jacques Henry
Millennium Cave Adventure Vanuatu
On the island of Santo Vanuatu the local community works together with the help of the New Zealand and Australia Government to create this cave tour. The tour was designed after the discovery of the cave back in 2008 thus the name Millennium Cave’s. By creating this tour they have a good way to raise money to build schools. The money also goes to each child that cannot afford the the cost of a education. So we had to do this tour and enjoy the hospitality of the local Vanuatu people one more time.
On our way to the Millennium Caves. We had to drive on the old WWII airstrip that lead to the village that starts the cave trip.
Arriving at the local village.
All the kids where checking us out as we started our hike through there land.
Just as we started the school bell rung and they all took off to line up for school.
Before we could enter the cave we had to get face paint from our guide. It has been thought for many years that the caves where taboo, so the face paint would protect us from any bad things.
Looking good dad.
Yup, Vanuatu Face Paint.
Cary and his camo!
DOwn into the canyon we hiked over slippery rocks and ladders made of bamboo.
Don’t slip buddy.
Looking back on our last light before total darkness for 400meters
The cave ceiling was very high and covered in bats. The rocks below were covered in bat poo!
No picture of inside but, I was glad to see the beach at the end of the cave.
Now for a fun swim down the river cayon or so we thought.
We had to climb over more rocks and huge boulders to get to the flowing river below.
Now we float slowwly and comfortable down the cayon looking at the beautiful views and jungle surrounding us.
Cary even took a waterfall shower, no mud left on him.
after a 45 minut float we had to hike straight up hill for 20 minutes to get out of the Canyon
We then hiked through cow pastures and farm land.
Made it back to the Village
Thanks,
Jacques
Land-Diving With Vines
The men of Pentecost have been jumping off these towers for a 100 years plus. The legend is that a woman was running from her husband because he wanted her. She climbed a tall tree and tied vines to her feet before her husband caught her. She then jumped off the tree and the man jumped after her. He fell to his death but the woman survived because she was tied off. So every year in the month of April, May, and June during the yam harvest the men jump to prove there courage and that they are real men.
After watching this event I was really worried about the safety of the men and was glad they all made it safely down. Luc who was the Chief of the village told us that they only jump in April, May, and June because any other time is deadly. In the 1970’s the Queen of England came to this island and they jumped for her but it was in January. Two men jumped and they both died. So no more jumping after that happened on off months.
The Tower is roughly 35 meters high. Constructed out of trees and lashed together with vines.
Looking back down the high on our way to the land diving tower. You can see DRAGONSBANE anchored right off the beach.
For the event the local people dress in there native cloths.
As the jumper prepares himself the women and men dance and sing to make sure the jumper stays safe.
The jump master would tie the vines to the feet and make sure all was well before the jump.
The jumper did a chant and pumped himself up before he jumped.
One last wave and chant before lift off.
Off he goes to see if the vines will hold.
Looks like a good landing as he hit the ground.
Even jumped from the highest point.
These men are very brave. This was the last jump of the day and it all went fine.
Thanks,
Jacques
What a Beautiful Passage
We made it to Pentecost Island off the village of Wali. We sailed for 25 hours and arrived at 4pm and meet some new friends that I have been chatting with me over the SSB Vanuatu radio net. Patrick and Amanda are from the UK and were very happy to see us join them for the land diving tomorrow. Dad, Cary, and I paddled ashore with our new friends to meet up with Luc who is an old man in his 60’s to go over what the plan for tomorrows land diving will included. But before I go over that I want to think back about the last 24 hours.
It was about 3am on my watch when I saw a bright red glow that looked like a blood moon rising out of the ocean. I was confused because the moon had already risen, set for the evening and there was not a cloud to be seen. The glow was off my forward port bow and it glowed so intensely I thought the ocean was on fire. I look at the chart and it dawned on me that I was watching the glow of another volcano. What a sight to see, I looked out from under the Bimini and was shocked to see the stars as if they were spray painted across the sky. Stars bright and thick like the Milky Way, on the horizon the glow of a hot red volcano shine across the ocean before me. With just the sails up there was no sound to be heard. The breeze was warm and soft on my face. I was overcome by the beauty of the world around me at that moment that no picture could ever do it justice. For the first time in my life a volcano guided my approach around its shore line as I continued to Pentecost. To add to it the star danced to life and shot across the sky. For once I had nothing to wish when I saw the shooting star, it was magic out here. Dragonsbane glide across the ocean with ease and it was one of the times I just smiled at it all. I wish I could have had everybody I loved with me just for that fleeting moments to enjoy it.
Tomorrow we will join Luc from the local village and go watch 8 young men dive off a 35 meter tower and hopefully they will not die in the process. We will get to watch there ceremonial dancing and see the magic happen. But before Luc let us leave he gave us a cup of Kava that made the Fiji Kava seem more of a joke. After drinking the mud drink my mouth felt like I had just been to the dentist and ever thing was numb. I feel so relaxed and happy. I can’t wait to fall asleep listening to the beach waves just a few 100 feet from Dragonsbane and the insects singing me to sleep. So without another word I leave you to dream.
Good night Friends,
Jacques Henry
Off to Pentecost, Vanuatu Island Land Divers
Finally, after spending three days trying to fill our propane tank for the last time before we head to Darwin Australia we are departing Port Villa. Once again I have to remind myself that this is the south Pacific and things get done when they get done not based on any schedule. Simple task such as filling a propane bottle takes lots of effort and the store owner tells you the propane will be here tomorrow and then the next day and so on. Anyway its life out here and it makes me lough sometime well pulling my hair out.
We are underway to a northern Island called Pentecost. During this time of year April/June the yam harvest is in full swing. It is also the time of the year that the tree vines reach their maximum strength for land diving. That’s right the local village men take part in a rite of passage for the young boy to prove they are men by jumping off a 35 meter tower. They tie vines around there legs and jump from varies heights based on their age, the older the higher they go. If you may recall national Geographic did a spell on these men. I am excited to see how this is all done and will take pictures and post as soon as there is good wifi, may have to wait till Australia.
Hope all is well with everybody.
Cheers,
Jacques Henry
How’s the Local Culture? Vanuatu.
A few day ago based on my dad continued request we found a local man to take us lobster fishing. He had come to your boat on anchor several times asking for gas, and help to fix his lawn whip. We of course helped the young man named Thompson. He grew up right in Port Resolution in one of the four villages that encircle the bay. I have to point out that Port Resolution is not a port town or any major industrial shipping yard. Port Resolution is just the name for the area and there is not really much their other then four villages and the port resolution yacht club that caters to the cruisers as they anchor in the bay to go hike up the volcano. The Port Resolution Yacht Club is just a small palm hut that has a bar were you can buy a very expensive beer and arrange a meal with advanced notice. But all in all the village people and the Port Resolution Yacht Club contains very nice people that don’t have much but seem very happy. Majority of the people live in grass palm huts and the kids run freely among the elderly and farm animals.
Now after meeting Thompson a few times he dropped by with his cousin that was visiting from the center of the Tanna Island which is about 40 km away. His cousins name was Pete and it was his second time visiting the ocean in his life. He was about 30 years old and he had spent his entire life living 40 km away from the ocean in his village farm and family. Thompson wanted to show the boat to Pete and we had them both come aboard. After checking out the GPS chart plotter and the interior of the boat we offered them a beer. They would only take one and I think it was not a custom of theirs to drink beer or spirits of any kind. They would drink Kave but a very strong Kava that makes your mouth go numb and you get hallucinations. This seemed to be a very popular thing to do among the village men only, no women are allowed to drink Kava. After some discussions about different things my dad asked to go lobster fishing or I should say he asked for Cary and I to go learn lobster fishing. Thompson was very excited and said yes.
Before I agreed to go with Thomspon I asked how he went lobster fishing? Thompson described that we would be in about 2 meter of water or less and go at night. We need underwater flashlights, mask, and fins. He said to show up at his hut at sunset, Pete and Thompson would join us and walk to the ocean side were the reef was. I asked about sharks and Thompson side “not a Problem”. I think I should also point out that speaking English was more or less understood between us and Thomspon but Pete had no idea what we were talking about. Well sounds like a plan and Thompson left for dinner in his hand carved log canoe that his father made 20 years ago.
Cary, my dad, and I left Dragonsbane right after the sun set and as we motored for shore I hit a gill net of one of the local village people. They come out during low tide and stretch gill nets across the areas of the bay and you cannot see them at night. It took me about 20 minutes of messing with the net and got it off the prop. We then continued onto the beach and road the surf in with no issues. My dad said he knew were the trail was and well, it took us a long time to find it in the night. We found the trail to the main road and walked to Thompson house. A woman came up to us and showed us to Thompson who was sitting around the fire with all the other men. He was bundled up in a coat, pants, and sweater saying it was cold out tonight, it was 78 degrees out. The children ran around us saying and smiling asking questions. Thompson grabbed his little spears, Pete, and a bag to hold the catch.
We walked away from the village to the other side of the point and came to the ocean. Pete set out to make a fire Cary and I got ready. My dad would stay with Pete and help with the fire so when we returned we could warm up around the fire. The plan was to hike a quarter mile down the beach and slip into the ocean behind the reef were the white capped waves were breaking over. The best lobster fishing was right behind the reef and we would follow the reef all the way back to the fire and come out. One problem was that my underwater flashlight would not work anymore. Thompson said no problem, his big flashlight was very powerful and we could all see well under the water as he handed the kill bag to me. So in the pitch black night with no moon and cloud cover we dived into the ocean.
Now as we swam out to the reef the water was warm and about 2 meters deep but quickly became shallow. Thompson began swimming right over the reef with the white capped wave breaking over us. The bottom was a few inches under us and we were swimming between the coral in naturel trenches in the reef. Thompson was in front Cary and I swimming next to each other so we could both see in the dark behind the flashlight. The problem was that every time a wave broke over our heads the air bubbles from the wave blacked out the light and you could not see anything in front of you. As we continued to go across the reef I started brushing up against the coral cutting my forearms and biceps. Car was having the same issue and we were both just pushed off the coral with our gloves.
The last thing I was thinking about was sharks, I was thinking don’t push off a rock fish or a black crustacean with long black thorns all over it. Thompson was chasing little tropical fish and spearing whatever moved real simple technique “kill everything that moves”. He finally killed a little yellow fish and put it in the bag I was carrying. As Thompson did so I had to stand myself up in the breaking waves and the force of the wave pushed me right back and I sat in a coral patch feeling the coral break under my weight and scrap my butt up. Then we started swimming again and he saw this little lobster and caught that. This time I positioned myself so there was no coral behind me but a really big wave pushed me a few feet and I fell right back into a coral head racking my back on coral yet again. Buy this time the coral that had cut my forearms, butt, and now my back was burning really bad in the salt water. Cary nor I could see much without flashlights and I was carrying a bag of bleeding fish so 30 minutes into this hunt I told Thompson I was going for the shore. Thompson said ok and we all swam back to the beach and fire. Needless to say I told my dad to buy his dam lobster from somebody else because I am not doing that shit again. It has been about a week now and I still have coral rashes on my back side and my forearms are all scabbed over and itch bad.
I was grateful for Thompson to take us lobster fishing and I kept my cool saying thank you for the experience. Thompson cooked the little lobster on the fire and we all got a nice bit of it. Then we chatted about their life and ours. Pete had showed my dad a flute that he had made sense they didn’t talk much and showed that off again. Pete informed us through Thompson that there were 100 local languages on the small Island of Tanna between all the villages. Pete new 25 of the languages and if they didn’t know the language they spoke pigeon.
On our hike back to the village Thompson asked what I did for a living and I told him but I don’t think he understood me but he seemed pleased with my response. He offered me Vanuatu local tobacco to smoke and I tried it. The local grown tobacco is very strong stuff, it burn the back of my throat, and made my head spin. He asked me if my life was good back home. I said it is a good life and I missed my family, friends, and village. But most of the people from my village work hard to come to a tropical island to have fun and relax. Thompson said that was nice but at least they had money to travel, I won’t ever travel and I would like to do that. I had no good response other then that’s a good point. Thompson only went to school for two years and could not read or write but spent his days providing for his family and village. His life was very simple and from my observation a happy life.
We are currently moored in Port Villa getting geared up to head north to Espiritu Santo Island to hopefully go diving on the SS President Coolidge and the Million Dollar Point. So stay tuned!
Cheers,
Jacques Henry
Volcano Tanna Island Photo
It took a few days of bad internet to get these up but here you go. I hope you like them.
We are now in Port Villa, Vanuatu and getting ready to head north before we sail to Australia. Spent the other night lobster fishing with a local native over a coral reef at night and got coral rash all over my back but I will tell that story tomorrow.
Cheers,
Jacques
Hikng the Rim Of A Exploding Volcano
Cary and I began our 8 km hike to the Tanna Island, Vanuatu volcano locally named Yasur. When my dad dropped us off on shore a French family that had been to the volcano yesterday gave us some hiking directions to get there. So off we went through the local Port Resolution village that was made up of several palm thatched roof and walled huts. As always the people are very kind, always have big smiles and always introduce themselves as we walked by their homes. The road was a two track for trucks to drive on, the hiking was easy but long. It was Sunday and as we walked by the villages, people were at church under a tarp like shelter worshipping and children sang. As we continued you could hear a rumble ever so often telling us that we were getting close to the volcano. Our path continued to have cows blocking it eating grass and slapping the millions of flys that surrounded everything. No matter how fast we hiked the fly’s would not leave us alone. We also ran across paths with some boars and babies that were not too happy to have us bother there day, made lots of noise and charged across our path into the jungle.
We finally made it to the main gate witch is a grass hut archway but had no sign indicating that it was the path to the volcano. Actually they had no signs anywhere to indicate where the volcano was but following the sound and mountain we found it. I offered two pouches of tobacco and the women just looked at me, said we need money and we don’t smoke tobacco. Ok well I tired, Cary and I had to pay the $3350 each and then we hiked up the volcano. As we hiked up through the jungle to the volcano you could hear large explosions every 10 or 20 minutes. We broke through the jungle terrain into a dessert area leading up to the rim of the volcano and hiked up the soft sand. We could see all the fresh magma rock that had blown out of the volcano all over the ground and smoke blowing out of the volcano. The smell of sulfur was very strong and the smoke was yellow in color. Half way up our 20 minute climb the volcano made a loud pumping sound like an old steam engine train chugging out of the train station. The sound then went quiet and the ground started to shake a little bit, then boooooom and the sound of 747 jet airplane taking off. The concussion of the explosion was so violent you could feel it in your chest and our hearts raced. We looked up and could see magma flying 1000s of feet up into the sky. What a rush and we climbed faster to get to the edge of the volcano to see inside it. We made it to the top as a huge cloud of gas blow by us choking on the sulfur smell we hiked further along the volcano ridge to the windward side and watched the volcano blow and rumble.
At the volcano there was no warning signs or information on what you should do or not do. When we got to the volcano path that went up the side of the mountain there was one sign and it said “Think Safety” that’s it. So looking, feeling, and experiencing the raw power of the volcano you had to wonder where it was safe to walk and how close you could get to the fire breathing dragon. We hiked slowly around the entire brim of the volcano experiencing all the different views and explosions. We felt the heat and smell of the volcano smiling the whole time. As we hiked around the brim it would get very steep to the point if you fell into the crater you would roll all the way down into the magma so we stepped very carefully. At one point in a not so good location the crater exploded sending rock 1000’s of feet up and blew my hair straight back. Cary jogged down the back side of crater and I watched from the edge with my hear t pounding out of my chest laughing at the power. Then loud streams of gas blowing out of rock faces around the magma. We spent 5 hours watching and eating our lunch with our legs hanging into the crater enjoying the day. But every time that volcano erupted my heart raced and I wondered if I should take pictures, or run for my life. I always took the pictures and Cary did to well screaming yahooooo!
At one location on the brim there was a long dip that got you very close to the crater edge but you had to climb down 300 feet to get to the inside crater edge so we discussed our path down and went for it. As we climb down I got about of the way down and my foot broke through the honey combed surface up to my mid-calf muscle. I realized the danger I was putting ourselves in hiking down into the crater so I told Cary to stop and go back. I turned around planted another foot and it broke through again. My heart was racing but I I stepped carefully and didn’t break through again. I made it out of the crater struggling up the sand step edge and looked back to see smoke coming out of the foot holes I made. Man, that was a dumb idea, I realized that the crater inside could be honey combed and you could easily break through to hot steam canvases or even lava. Cary and I both laughed and just shock our heads at our stupidity. So we kept hiking around the rim and never thought to get any closer than that.
As night fell upon us the glow of the boiling mage was very bright and beautiful. The sun set and now you could see jets of fire scream out of the rocks and lava slashing up into the air. Then there would be a huge explosion and send lave 1000’s of feet up into the air and it would be like a million flashes of light bright red. Now we set up our observation point on the far side of the volcano so we could look right done into the crater. Being in this location also amplified the sound and concussion of the blast. After ever eruption we would get a shower of fine pepper rock and ash that covered us from head to toe. By the time we packed our gear up we were black with rock, sand, ash, and smelled of sulfur. With the glow and eruptions of the volcano on our left side we hiked in the darkness along the crest to the path leading off the volcano. It was the best short hike off of a mountain I ever experienced in my life. The volcano would erupt and you would jump a few feet down the ridge away from the crater and then get a ash rain that would fog your head lamp shining your path. We made it off the volcano in hour.
We still had to hike 8 km back in the pitch black dark of the jungle. The stars were very bright and you could see the Milky Way but there was no moon. It gets really dark in the jungle that you can’t see your hand in front of your face. As we hiked we would scare animals that would go running off crashing through the trees and brush making your heart thump when they did. The cows we passed during that day were still in the same spot eating still. It rained a few times as we hiked and cooled us down. After 3 hours of hiking we made it to the beach were I flashed my head lamp to signal my dad to come pick us up. After a while my dad made it to us but got soaked landing the dingy in the surf as the waves broke. We made it off the beach through the surf and onto Dragonsbane. Finally took a sea bath hoping there was no sharks and washed up. Had a bit to eat, drink, and went to bed. Told my dad he had to go up to the volcano but to take the truck instead of hike so that’s what he will do today with another cruiser friend of ours who is Dutch man named Matt. Matt also informed us that last week two people died up on the volcano which no one mentioned to us. Good thing I guess because we never would have taken the chances we did.
I cant wait to post the pictures.
Cheers,
Jacques Henry
Anchored in Port Resolution Tanna, Next to a Volcano
Ok first off Port Resolution is not a port! It’s a very rolly polly anchorage with nothing to offer but a good spot to drop your ground tackle aka anchor. Yes like I have been experiencing seen the USA is a rolly anchorage. I personally think the best torture is to place a human in a bed and rock it enough to have the human roll from one side to the other. But to make it interesting you add walls so you can bounce in to it. So that’s what I will be doing tonight in bed, rolling from one side to other wondering why in the world I am in this situation when I could have a great job, girlfriend, and homemade beer. O well I guess maybe because looking out the cockpit I can see the glow of the Volcano that I am anchored off of. Yes that’s right we are only 8km from the most activate volcanoes in the world as the local native say.
Been here for a few hours now and I found out it cost 3350 dollars per person in Vanuatu dollars to enter the volcano area and I only brought 2200 hundred. Guess the local natives wised up and realized that they had a good thing going and started charging big bucks to see hot magma, love that word “magma”. So with a fist full of New Zealand Dollars and USA green backs I am off to talk to the French, German, New Zealand, Norwegian, and OZ’s cruisers too change them for Vanuatu dollars. So I meet Simon and Barbara who like most kiwis are great and changed 100 New Zealand bucks for 8000 Vanuatu dollars. Then I went to the OZ’s and they gave all their money to their son who flow home today, lucky SOB. Then I meet the GERMANS Peter and Hyde who are the coolest Germans I have met so far this trip. They didn’t give me any Vanuatu dollars for change but gave me a boat load of information about the land jumping men here in Vanuatu. So armed with a few Vanuatu bucks I had in my pocket and the money from my Kiwi friends we have enough for two to hike the 8 km in and see the volcano.
Now this is how its going to get interesting, Vanuatu natives love to barter for things and I have 12oz of pipe tobacco that I think I could trade the gate keeper of the volcano to get my dad in. Problem is, is that my dad has to make the 16km round trip and I leave that call up to him. I will let you all know in the next day or so how this works out.
Cheers,
Jacques
Made to Anatom Island Vanuatu
After heaving too for 3 hours off the entrance the harbor bay waiting for the sun to come up we made an easy anchorage. I went back to sleep for an hour or two and my dad went off to clear us in at the little hut/police station in the village. He returned shortly after and said that the officer would be back in the afternoon to clear us in, o good no worries. After my nap we went ashore again and like ever little village in the pacific I saw a horse, goats, chickens, cows, and the nicest people ever. Walked to the general store to find it closed, I guess we don’t get cookies for dinner. After that we waited at the police station talking with other cruisers from Australia, France, and Germany. Good people out here and glad to be accepted in the ranks of common seamanship. Now back to my beer and dinner cooking on the stove.
Cheers,
Jacques Henry
Almost to Vanuatu
Once again enjoying life at 20 degrees and sleeping on a hill held down by a cloth. The wind has been gusting up to 30 knots but remains out of the south east. Like yesterday the swells range from 1 to 3 meters and every now and again you get soaked by ocean salt spray in the cockpit. It seems like I cant escape the salt anymore, it has coated everything including myself. But the sun is out and we only have 54 nautical miles to go on this lumpy ocean.
Current Position: 20deg 49.4min South, 169deg 06.3min East bearing 035deg M, UTC 02:17, Wind Speed 20-30knots, Swells 1-3 meters, Wind direction South East, sunny with little clouds but cool wind.
Thanks,
Jacques Henry
Underway to Aneityun Island, Vanuatu
Left this morning with a better weather forecast for the Vanuatu Islands. It should be a fast sail as we have a beam reach sailing at 6 to 8 knots with 20 knots of wind. The sea is a bit lumpy and a few swells are over 2 meters but mostly staying between 1 to 2 meters. I must say it is so nice to be traveling with the wind then into it. Anyway it should take us two days to sailing the 305 nautical miles to Vanuatu. I sure hope the live volcano it worth the back tracking. I Cary has been carrying around marshmellows, gram crackers, and chocolate for over a month now and we have not eaten any of it yet. We are looking forward to roasting the marshmallows on some magma hehehe. May try and sleep on the volcano too but first we have to get there.
Cheers,
Jacques Henry
Current position: 22deg 18.2min South, 167deg 23.9min East UTC 02:50, Bearing 035deg M, Swell 2 meters, Wind Speed 20 to 25 knots, Cloudy with Patch’s of Sun, Air Temp 78 deg F
Touring Ile des Pins
Today we went ashore and hiked up the Pic Nga mountain which only took a hour and half. We looked out over the green blue ocean lagoons surrounding the island. We took lots of photos of Dragonsbane anchored right off the beautiful white sandy beaches. The sand beaches here are made of powder so fine it squeaks between your feet. The little lagoon we are anchored in has lots of sea turtle that play around the boat. The strong ocean breeze from the south keeps us cool at night. The clouds have finally let the sun through as we descended down the mountain. It took a bit longer to hike down because the lose stones and gravel on the trail made it hard to keep your feet but still fun all the same.
We walked to a hotel, rented a car for half the day and drove around the island taking in the local views and people. The Island is very clean with friendly people waving and smiling at us all day. The hardest thing to find on the island was a place to eat. We found a little “snack” or cafthat served us up long baguette sandwiches and fries. Then we found the grocery store but they only opened at 4pm so we went to the beach. We enjoyed walking up and down the snow white beach, sat down played with the sand and work on our tans. Finally it was 4 so we went to the very small store and bought beef, potatoes, and some more French baguettes for dinner.
The Island of Pins is very sweet and would be a great paradise for a workaholic in need of solitude and empty beaches. Its only you, sea, and sun to enjoy here not much else. A few nice churches and an old prison that has been over taken by age and Mother Nature. Tomorrow we plan on departing to Vanuatu Tanna Island. The passage should take two days to complete and I will up date you tomorrow on our progress.
Thanks,
Jacques Henry
Wind Stuck in Prony New Caledonia
Well we sailed or I should say we motored sailed our way south from Noumea. The plan was to sail to the south Island of Island of Pine but the wind was blow 30 knotes right on our nose making forward progress incredibly slow. We realized that we had no chance to make it to Island of Pine and should anchor in Prony Bay out of the swells and wind. We arrived at night and used our electronic charts and visual navigation to slowly work our way into the protected anchorage. We lucked out with a mooring waiting for us to tie too. The wind sure was hollowing that night on the mooring, our wind generator was making 20 plus amps all night.
We started out early in the morning and head out to sea around 7 am to make sure we had enough time to make the 40 nautical mile trip to Island of Pines. The wind once again was right on our nose but as we motor sailed further out to sea the swells grew to 2 meters with breaking waves. The wind was blowing a steady 32 knotes and to make things worse the current was against us. It took 2 hours to go 1.75 nautical miles and at that point I call the passage off. I figured at this speed of 2 knotes we would be getting to Island of Pine by mid night. That is a very dangerous situation because to get into the anchor you have to go through reefs and coral heads. Many boats have been lost trying to make night landings here and all over the pacific. So I used common sense and turned around. Now with a 30 plus tall wind, 2 meter swells and a postage stamp for a sail I was moving at an easy 8 knots. At one point I surfed down a wave hitting 14.5 knots and asked for the sail to be trim even more. Being over powered like we were I ran the chance of rounding up or pitch poling aka rolling the boat over down a wave. It was a fun filled 3 hours and the adrenaline was beginning to pour out my ears. We finally pulled in and tied up to the same mooring. We have been sitting here for two days now and the wind is still blowing 30 knots. We have been hiking around the area ashore discovering lighthouses and hiking trails having fun. But I am going nuts just sitting in one place but its better then smashing through waves all day to then heave too at sea till dawn in 2 meter swells. I guess its smart to take a step back then walk off the cliff in a hurry.
Thanks,
Jacques
Off to Isle of Pines New Caledoina
Well it’s time to leave the main city Noumea in New Caledonia and head to the island of Pines. It is south of the main island of NC but still a territory of New Calediona. The island is full of caves, birds, coral reef, and many local native that can take you out in outrigger conoe to see the wonders within. should be a good time and then we will travels to the Loyaute Island Mare to do some scuba diving. Then off to Vanuatu Island to see the activity valcanos. I will be out of wifi service but will post via SSB radio to share updates and events.
One last picture before I go. I got a haircut! Not bad for talking to the hair stylist that only spoke Vietnamese or French.
Well see you later!
Jacques Henry
Hiking Accross GR1 New Caledonia
Cary and I arrived from Nuome New Caledonia via my dad driving us with a rental car to the GR1 French hiking trail. We tried to take the bus the day before and waited three hours to find out that the bus was not coming today. So instead of waiting around a second day we had my dad drive us to the trail head on the south end of New Caledonia to a town called Prony. Prony is a very small town that once was a large logging operation. The logging supported by the labor of the french convicts.
My dad taking a break from driving enjoying the outdoors.
Ready to head out into the wild New Caledonia back bush.
We entered the old settlements of the french loggin camps and this was the remains of the prison that housed the logging convicts.
The island is now swallowing up the old past ironically by tree growth.
After a few hours the trail leading us away from the ocean to the old mining waste lands became iron red and slick.
We happened apon these stray dogs that I think were white but now iron red.
Among the blood red landscape was a waterfall were we filled up our water bottles and relaxed.
After several hours of hiking we reached the top of a peek looking north west out over the old chrome mining valley and hopefully the campsite.
Along the trail spider webs would be blocking our path. You had to be on your toes to see the webs and we didn’t want to fight these spiders.
Nearing our first night campsite we enter a dead forest and the trees had alot of charm and beauty.
The hut that was at the campsite had been stripped apart and I think burned as fire wood. We still set the tent up on the deck of the old hut and spent the night.
We filled our water bottles from the near by stream and enjoyed the evening sunset.
We began our hike early because the sun goes down at 6pm and then up at 6 am. So with nothing to do you sleep or hike. So by 7 am we were off.
The trail was once again steep and wet with all the rain coming down as we hiked today.
After 6 hours of hiking we reached the top of the next mountain and looked back at our progress.
We still had a long way to go to get to our next campsite so we dug deep and kept hiking. The rain continued to keep up wet to the bone.
Crossed over a swamp in the valley and this little river. We then had to begin our last mountain climb of the day.
As we hiked up the Moutain we entered a botanical forest full of birds talking and singing.
We climbed for over 2 hours to get to the top of this beast and the pain was beginning to show.
Looking out over the valleys and mountains we hiked over.
We finally made it in a little less then 12 hours and 30km later. Glad to be out of the rain.
We started out early again with a rough night of sleep and wet cloths we hiked 2 hours to enter the “Parc Provinicial de la Riviere Bleue” aka the reserve park. It is still raining hard.
From all the rain the trail was very slick and tough to climb or descend. The views we great between the rain clouds and mist.
At this point on the map Cary and I decided to call it quits and turn around. We still had 60km to go and that would tak us at least two more days. Cary’s feet were so blistered up he found it hard to wake. I rolled my ankle and had a bit of a limp. We hiked back to the main entrance and stayed the night in the hut. Still completed 15km for the day.
Woke up to the sound of these birds and rain. We didn’t sleep very well again because the the rain made the temperature very cold and we just slept for minutes at a time. So glad happy to be heading back to civilization.
We hiked 3km to the road and then began our 50km hike back to the Noumea city. After 2 hours of thumbing for a ride a nice man on a bus stopped and picked us up. It was a bus for the mine workers that was heading back to Nomea city. They drove us all the way to the port and we got off. I was happy and very tried, but it felt good to at least complete half the trip and put 60 pr 70 K’s under our belt.
Thanks,
Jacques
Off Hiking the GR-1 Trail In New Caledonia
Well the wind forecast for sailing is very weak. So instead of sitting around the boat fixing things as always Cary and I will go off on a 80km hike for 3 or 5 days. We will get to see the New Caledonia outback and hopefully get to see some cool things. That said I will not post on the blog for a few days.
We are also getting one of our winches re-machined so it will work better. I guess all the sailing and heavy weather bent the winch plate if you can believe that but we did. My dad and a nice French man is working it out.
The old maintanece company that maintain the boat had used 5200 glue on all the bolts so it took us two days to remove the winch. All I can say is that is stupid, stupid, stupid!
Thanks,
Jacques Henry
2 Week Throw Back Update
During our passage to New Caledonia Cary landed his first Mahi Mahi. It weighted in at 18.5 pounds and 4 foot long. Check I tout below,
We ate fish for dinner, breakfast, lunch, and then repeated the same for four days but cooked different each time.
Apron our arrival at the outside reef that sits 6 nautical miles off the New Caledonia main land we approached the Petite Passé to the Port Noumea, Baie de la Moselle. As we approach so did the French Navy in a helicopter with a diver hanging for it.
At first I was a bit worried that we may have done something wrong but it was just the French being French, I love this place. So we made a great entrance off the Pacific to the marine and sat down to t #one beer! Oui, Oui!
Looking back at the night we left.
Thank you,
Jacques Henry
Sharks at 163 Feet, TO DEEP BROTHER
As I mentioned in my last blog I went on a deep dive to find the Gray and White tip sharks. The dive was short but to a new depth for me, 150 feet. I found out from this dive a lot about my limits and how to handle the effects of nitrogen narcosis and to make the dive more complex secondary regulator air leak. As you will watch in the film above you can see the white chum/food floating all around me and the other divers. Then from the dark blue sharks emerge all around us and circle chumping at the food. Some coming right at you like a rocket and then wave off. I was at 163 feet when the sharks appeared and I tried my best to keep them in the shot. After about 2 minutes my secondary regulator began exhausting mass amounts of air and when I looked at my air gauge it was bouncing. Towards the end of the clip you can hear screaming which I found out later was my dive master freaking out over the sharks and taking pictures. You can hear my breathing over his screams. So lets just say all hell was breaking lose for me. So I stopped, closed my eye and the world was spinning behind my eye lids, ok don’t close your eyes. I then focused on my dive watch “depth 154, 156, 157, 160, 163 feet” shit I am going down not up. At that depth I could feel the effects of nitrogen narcosis and new I had to go up slowly to stop the crushing feeling of the weight of water around me. My chest felt like it had a car on it. I knew I had lots of air and I just had to go up slowly and breath. I got a few odd looks from others as I began to rise up to 100 feet but it felt like a release of adrenaline into my blood stream. Everything stopped except my exhausting regulator which was just dumping my remaining air. O well looking at about 1000 psi left after 10 minutes of diving, wow new record on emptying my tank. Up I go and do my decompression stop and surface with a new respect for everything. But after this event I had a great time and big thanks to the dive team and Master!
Thank You,
Jacques
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